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Sunday, May 11, 2008
Fashion in Motion...

So about a month or so ago, Debonair made a list of the "Movies that Impacted the Fashion World" and while I agree with most of their choices, I have a few of my own...
Debonair's List (partial, in no particular order):
1. A Clockwork Orange - Definitive Punk
Combat boots, bowler hats, braces and exaggerated eye-makeup, the 'droogs' may have been delinquents but they were also well-dressed, dandy delinquents with lawless attitudes that put the Sex Pistols to shame later in the 60s.

Jean Paul Gaultier's Autumn - Winter '08/9 menswear collection sees the return of the Alex DeLarge influence (stylewise only hopefully).2. American Gigolo - American Sportswear
Julian Kaye was preppy elegance personified and tied up with a lavish Armani bow. He wasn't a likeable character but an undeniably smooth, charismatic fashionplate. Could anyone take their eyes off him?....I still can't - he is too, too lovely - I have a feeling that I should attempt to stop subjecting him to my examination but if men can look, I'm all in favour for the Female Gaze too!
Still dressing 'money' in the same elegant, nonchalant style today, Armani Spring - Summer '07

3. Annie Hall - Androgyny baby!
Long before there was Agy, there was Annie. Played by Diane Keaton, Annie Hall is the heroine of the only Woody Allen film I can stand, and that is partly because of the style embraced by the eccentric Annie. With her waistcoats, ties and what are now termed as 'boyfriend' trousers, Keaton was partly at the forefront of a huge fashion movement that exists today. I say partly, because I mostly credit the androgynous look to Yves Saint Laurent who created the "Le Smoking" tuxedo, which was an incredibly influential and important design. But in films, Annie Hall covered that base.

Tom Ford for YSL Spring - Summer '04. I find it weird that Tom Ford even designed for YSL just a few years ago. I think it's because Stefano Pilati's most recent collection was so perfect that I am distinctly underwhelmed by Tom Ford's sunglass and perfume collection. Did anyone else think that Ford was going to come back with something more incredible than a bunch of sexist, racy ads and an accessories collection?...He doesn't have anything to prove, his stint at YSL speaks for itself, but still I'm hoping that Hedi Slimane is working on something more....KA-POW!-like compared to Ford's return to fashion.

4. North By Northwest - Cary Grant aka Suave, Elegant Bachelor-type
Cary Grant is immaculate in this timeless, single-breasted grey suit. I don't need to say anything more, except that if you're sitting here wondering why Cary Grant is on this list, you need to watch more pre-1970's cinema (especially Hitchcock).

Personally, my favourite menswear designer, Neil Barratt, Autumn - Winter '07/8

5. Pulp Fiction - minimal chic
Who hasn't watched Pulp Fiction and wished they were either Uma Thurman dancing with effortless cool in a 50's style restaurant, or Sam L. Jackson in a clean black suit with a skinny black tie, being a badass in general? No-one.

Hedi Slimane for Dior Homme - Autumn - Winter '06/7

My Continuing List:

6. Wes Anderson - the vintage-styled eccentrics
Speaking from a biased viewpoint as a 'bit' of a Wes Anderson fan, I think he created a distinct style in the genre he works within (the indie flick). From the fur-clad Margot Tenenbaum, to the Whitman brothers, to Max Fischer, the characters are the epitome of upper-middle class bohemia; the sort of people who own expensive, well-made clothing but rather than buying it new, it actually belonged to some deceased relative who dropped dead of scarlet fever in Papua New Guinea.

Calvin Klein - Spring - Summer '06

Lanvin - Autumn - Winter '05/6

7. Breakfast at Tiffanys - chic femme
Breakfast at Tiffany's, starring Audrey Hepburn and THAT Givenchy dress, amongst some other gorgeous outfits, and Fred Baby (Paul Varjak) wearing some rather dashing, spiffy suits.

Alberta Ferretti - Autumn - Winter '08/9

Givenchy - Autumn - Winter '04/5

Valentino - Autumn - Winter '08/9

Valentino - Autumn - Winter '08/9

Lanvin - Spring - Summer '08

Paul Smith - Autumn - Winter '08/9

8. The Great Gatsby - roaring 20's
Drop-waisted, flapper dresses, big floppy hats and love-stricken dandies.

YSL - Spring - Summer '06

Betty Jackson - Spring - Summer '06

Elspeth Gibson - Spring - Summer '06

Emporio Armani - Spring - Summer '06

9. Rebel Without A Cause - the original teen
Leather jackets, dirty jeans, and reckless attitudes, somehow binge-drinking is somewhat less rebellious than James Dean racing towards the edge of a cliff.

Bottega Veneta - Autumn - Winter '07/8

Gucci - Autumn - Winter '06/7

10. Clueless - the preppy teen
Plaid skirts, headbands, knee-socks and mary-jane's. Before there was Blair Waldorf, there was Cher Horowitz...in Alaia. Meanwhile, Dan Humphrey...I mean Josh and the other male characters were mooching around in shirts over band tees, like guys who like Marky-Mark.

Preen - Autumn - Winter '06/7

Karen Walker - Autumn - Winter '06/7

Luella - Spring- Summer '07

Eley Kishimoto - Autumn - Winter '08/9

Eley Kishimoto - Autumn - Winter '07/8

Phillip Lim - Autumn - Winter '07/8

Versace - Autumn - Winter '04/5

Also duly noted, but not elaborated upon because I am tired:
The Thomas Crown Affair (original with Steve McQueen)
The Talented Mr. Ripley
The Fifth Element

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