<body><script type="text/javascript"> function setAttributeOnload(object, attribute, val) { if(window.addEventListener) { window.addEventListener('load', function(){ object[attribute] = val; }, false); } else { window.attachEvent('onload', function(){ object[attribute] = val; }); } } </script> <div id="navbar-iframe-container"></div> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://apis.google.com/js/plusone.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> gapi.load("gapi.iframes:gapi.iframes.style.bubble", function() { if (gapi.iframes && gapi.iframes.getContext) { gapi.iframes.getContext().openChild({ url: 'https://www.blogger.com/navbar.g?targetBlogID\x3d2266529344607186388\x26blogName\x3dThe+Apathist\x26publishMode\x3dPUBLISH_MODE_BLOGSPOT\x26navbarType\x3dBLACK\x26layoutType\x3dCLASSIC\x26searchRoot\x3dhttp://theapathist.blogspot.com/search\x26blogLocale\x3den_GB\x26v\x3d2\x26homepageUrl\x3dhttp://theapathist.blogspot.com/\x26vt\x3d884683321372852148', where: document.getElementById("navbar-iframe-container"), id: "navbar-iframe" }); } }); </script>

Tuesday, April 08, 2008
Faster than a fighter jet, hotter than a bomb...

...is one of the reactions that Sophie Hulme's collection has elicited from me. Hulme's concept for her A/W 08 collection is "concealed combat, an armouring of womenswear". I'm not talking about metal breast plates and medieval knight's armour, but a subtle combination of military shapes with embellishments that keep in touch with the army theme.
Usually when I see that designers are using military styles for inspiration, this frequently roughly translates as 'copying exactly'. As it's announced as a seasonal trend, I mentally groan and get out my checklist: big buttons - check, braids - check, gold piping - check, a wool trench (as if every member of the military is also involved in espionage) - check, epaulettes - check. It's like a bloody Sgt. Pepper fan club meeting!
What I really like about Hulme's collection is the use of materials, unusual translation of combatwear, and the fact that she seems to understand that she isn't actually creating a collection that is going to be worn in battle - this is army luxe for keeps, not for just one season.

Labels: , , ,

18 comments